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jeudi 6 juillet 2017

Food Preservation Methods

This section describes general methods of food preservation. For detailed canning, freezing, drying, or root cellar storage procedures, look in the chapter that covers that food—for grains, Chapter 3; for herbs, Chapter 5; for fruits, Chapter 6; meats, Chapter 8. For vegetables, look in Chapter 4; pickles are mostly discussed under "Cucumbers" and sauerkraut making under "Cabbage" in that chapter.

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IN-GROUND STORAGE: Some people say you should leave most of the root vegetables in the garden during the winter, even after they're grown, rather than using other preserving methods. Parsnips and salsify are about the best for that; they're often left in the ground over winter with a mulch over them. But I tried that and despaired. Every time I wanted something out of the garden, the ground was either frozen so solid that I couldn't dig it up, or it was so wet and muddy that I could barely manage to pull my legs back out of the garden soil, much less bring an armload of vegetables with me. If the ground freezes down far enough to freeze your vegetables, they will get soft and be no good anyway (except for leeks). I guess it depends a lot on where you live or what your garden storage system is.


DETERIORATION IN STORAGE:  We share this wonderful world with myriad invisible but ravenous little critters who love to eat exactly the same things we do. The food preservation game is to get a move ahead of them and "enzymes," which are chemicals contained in the food itself that can cause undesirable changes. Salt, sugar, alcohol, sodium benzoate, and sulfurous acid are "chemical" preservatives that, in effect, poison or make the food yucky to the beasties. Drying food makes it impossible for them to grow and reproduce in it. Freezing puts them into hibernation except for the most cold-hardy, which can then double their number only in months, perhaps, rather than in hours. Canning, when you do it right, kills every last beast in the food and seals it up tight so that no more can get in. Cellar storage takes advantage of certain living foods' natural defenses against spoilage. 

All stored foods, no matter how they are stored, slowly but steadily lose quality and nutritional value as time goes by. Some foods deteriorate faster than others. If a food was on the verge of spoiling when you started, it may lose quality more quickly in storage. Some storage methods, such as canning and drying, hold the food better than others. The biggest single risk factor for most stored foods is warmth, which causes the loss of both nutrition and palatability. With few exceptions, the cooler it is (above freezing for nonfrozen foods), the better they keep. For every 20 degrees' increase in storage temperature, you lose one half of the possible shelf life of most stored foods. The ideal storage temperature is 38-40 E

PRESERVING MEAT: Our family of 7 (and very often extras) can use 2 big calves, 4 pigs, maybe half an elk, and 50 or more chickens a year. The pigs supply cooking grease as well, which can be canned or stored in the deep freeze. Without electricity to run a deep freeze, you can't keep meat frozen, except if you live where there is a really bad winter—and even then, only during that winter. In most places, your outside temperature will be below freezing sometimes, but you'll also get off-season thaws that could spoil the meat. So, without electricity, you'll have to either rent a locker in a nearby town, which doesn't cost much, or can most of your meat right after butchering. That's what the old-timers did, and they ate well. You can also dry the lean meat in small strips—jerky. But that isn't as tasty or chewable as canned meat. You can can the meat from any kind of animal; just bone it out first. Another food preservation system for meat is making mincemeat at the beginning of the cool season. It will keep during the winter months in a cold, outdoor place.


 

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